It’s at a point on the map where the world seems to come to an end… and where true adventure begins: Svalbard. It was toward this extreme frontier that Sylvie Moura and Philippe Maurin, along with their crew, chose to set sail, a journey defined by challenges, Arctic silence, and timeless wonders.
Over the coming months, we will take you along on this extraordinary voyage through a three-part series written by Sylvie herself. An authentic, intense, and deeply human logbook that puts you right on board, amidst ice, emotion, and endless horizons.
We always love sharing stories from the Navily community, an endless source of adventure and inspiration. This one, in particular, captivated us from the very first moment. Their words, paired with the breathtaking images they shared, left us dreaming… and we hope they do the same for you, sparking your desire to set sail for new horizons.
Ready to set course for the Far North?
SOMMAIRE
- The Origin
- The Journey
- Spitsbergen and the Polar Lands: a Paradise of Ice
Genèse
This journey to Spitsbergen was born from dreams formed long ago. In my youth, I fell completely under the spell of the icebergs calved by glaciers into Patagonia’s titanic lakes. Many years later, love struck again: this time for a man! Philippe answered with a “Yes“, not at a traditional altar, but to my proposal to join me in the icy lands of the Far South. Two consecutive sailing expeditions to Antarctica bound us together in this shared love for the polar regions, the second coming to an end in 2016.
One day in June 2019, we boarded a ferry with our vehicle and crossed the Strait of Messina toward Calabria, Italy. We were on our way to inspect an imposing sailboat, a solid fifteen tons of steel. Athos, as it was named.
So why were we there?
An unlikely turn of events, to say the least!
Just a few years earlier, upon returning from our second sailing trip to Antarctica, shaken by a rough crossing of the Drake Passage, I had sworn I would never sail again. Philippe had made a similar vow after being battered by a storm off the coast of Uruguay.
Yet despite these harrowing experiences at sea, Athos won us over. We bought her with a plan to cruise toward Ireland, Scotland, and then Norway, before pushing on toward an Arctic destination. Once we reached Norway, countless conversations with fellow adventurous sailors led us to choose Spitsbergen, far more accessible than Greenland, with the alluring bonus of greatly increasing our chances of encountering polar bears.
The Journey
Three people came aboard to join us for the passage to the Svalbard archipelago: a couple who had enthusiastically answered our crew listing on the “Vogue avec moi” website, and Claude, a friend who had logged many months at sea with us since 2019.
After clearing immigration formalities to register our exit from the Schengen area and fully provisioning the boat, we set sail.
Watch rotations were established, and forty-eight hours at sea, mostly under sail, carried us toward our halfway stopover, Bear Island (Bjørnøya). We enjoyed excellent sailing in favorable conditions. Seasickness took its toll on a few of us, but no matter, a small price to pay to fulfill our dreams. Drawing on our past experience, we knew that in a few days, the turmoil in our stomachs would be a distant memory.
During my watch at the helm, I catch a different sound in the waves, like the rush of water closing over a trough. Barely have I registered the thought before it’s confirmed: a grey fin cuts through the sea, leaving a trail in its wake before vanishing.
One dolphin, then a second, and soon a pod of about twenty are swimming alongside the boat. They crisscross, loop back, and match our pace right along Athos’s hull. What a joy to see them again! But who are they?
Their backs are marked with striking white patches, and their bellies are completely pale. I try to make out their snouts to identify the species, no easy task, given how fast they move.
Suddenly, one leaps high into the air and plunges back in with all the grace of an aquatic dancer. It seems to act as the opening signal for a ballet whose secrets remain a mystery to us. Soon, they are all joining in: executing leaps, elegant mid-air arches, and astonishing acrobatics.
We dropped anchor at Sørhamna* in the southeast of the island: a spot well-sheltered from the wind, though prone to rolling. Much-needed rest followed, and we slept soundly. But at 6:00 p.m., wanting to catch a breeze forecast for the night, the captain decided to set sail again, rounding the island via the south and west. The cliffs and rocky headlands put on a striking parade, where familiar shapes emerged. Birds were everywhere, claiming every single patch of land.
* Bjørnøya is a bird sanctuary. Going ashore is strictly prohibited at Sørhamna, though landing is permitted at Walrus Bay, just a few cables to the north.
The second 140-mile leg is bathed in sunshine: what luck! The constant company of birds and frequent visits from dolphins brighten the passage. The sea shimmers like diamonds. Alas, the wind dies down, and we end up motoring for much of the way.
Spitsbergen and the Polar Lands: A Paradise of Ice
At 1:30 p.m., I spot a boat on the horizon. In fact, there are two, then three. And within the white haze hugging the horizon that we had spotted, even more pristine white shapes emerge: a white that heralds a land of ice.
Our arrival marks the beginning of continuous daylight, and at midnight, we smile, dazzled by the sun.
The next day, we take our place off the Polish station at Hornsund, in the middle of a bay where icebergs drift at the mercy of the wind and currents. Suffice it to say, their path is often unpredictable. Fortunately, Athos is solidly built, though she still demands our full attention to avoid colliding with the larger growlers.
Venturing into the fjord to get close to the sea ice and the Hornsund glaciers is pure magic. A Minke whale comes to greet us, gliding smoothly alongside Athos. Then, come evening in this eternal light, we still manage to find sleep, lulled by the crackling song of the ice surrounding us under the gentle caress of the sun.
This raw, primordial landscape stirs my memory, the stark black-and-white contrast of these jagged peaks and our forced stop before the bay’s lingering sea ice take me back to memories so vivid my body can still feel them.
This southern region of Spitsbergen is home to bird colonies whose flight, colors, and calls leave us spellbound. An anchorage at Akseløya fully satisfies our passion for birdwatching.
Our crewmate, a skilled and passionate photographer, devotes herself to her craft with relentless dedication.
We hope this first chapter has offered a captivating glimpse into this extraordinary adventure through the most extreme latitudes, giving you a taste of the intensity and beauty of a truly remarkable journey. This story is only the beginning of a journey that we’ll be delighted to share with you over the coming weeks, guiding you along every step of the way.
We would like to extend our warmest thanks to Sylvie and her husband for choosing to share their extraordinary adventure with the Navily community, giving us a window into an experience as intense as it is authentic. Through her words and evocative photography, she grants us an insider’s view of a journey rich in deep emotion, majestic landscapes, and unforgettable moments.
Consider this your invitation to keep following along for the upcoming chapters of this adventure: there are still plenty of surprises!
